This is what makes wines like the 2011 Onesta Bechthold Vineyard Lodi Cinsault ($28) so unusual, even exotic – coming from a historic vineyard so ancient that they can, and usually do, produce a stand-alone red Cinsaut unlike any in the world.  A Bechthold red typically comes across with the delicacy of a Pinot Noir, the wild berry character of Zinfandel, and the subtle spice reminiscent of Grenache.  Onesta’s 2011 Bechthold red hits on all cylinders:  teeming with strawberry and kitchen spiced rhubarb pie-like fruit, couched in a soft medium-full body, soft, long and viscous in the mouth – think Keira Knightley in a pixie skirt, bouncing on a bed of Bings.

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